BEHIND THE JEWELS J-L

J

 Jeanne: No definitive information on manufacturer, local and date of production. Whimsical and figural jewelry that emphasized the metalwork which was accented with imitation stones. Quality and workmanship above average. Signed Jeanne. Not very common on the market. Prices above average due to rarity.

Jewelart: No definitive information found. Made Sterling jewelry which appears to be from the 1940s and 1950s. Signed JEWELART.

Jewelerama: Jewelerama was an offshoot of the Edmund Scientific Co. of Barrington, New Jersey. Known for novelty pins with machine-polished, circular convex metal discs that produce shimmering refractions of light. Made primarily in the 1960s. An affordable collectible.

JJ: JJ is the registered trademark of the Jonette Jewelry Co of East Providence, Rhode Island. Founded in 1935 by Abraham Lisker as the Providence Jewelry Company. When his brother Nathan joined the company, the name was changed to Lisker & Lisker. Ceased production during World War II due to metal shortages. Back in business after the war as the Jonette Jewelry Co. Abraham Lisker is now retired. His son, Gordon Lisker, has headed the company since the 1970s. JJ Jewelry is primarily figural and novelty pins of average to better than average quality. Marked JJ with a copyright symbol.

Jomaz: ( pr: JOE Maz) Please see Mazer. Joseff of Hollywood: (pr: Joe ZEFF) Eugene Joseff was born in Chicago in 1905. From 1923 to 1926 he worked as a graphic artist in a Chicago advertishing agency and designed jewelry in his spare time. He moved to Los Angeles in 1927 and started training as a jewelry designer. Some of his early pieces are used in Hollywood films of the 1931-1935 era. In 1935 he opened Sunset Jewelry in Hollywood and founds "Joseff of Hollywood". He developed a visually effective substitute to gold which was known as Russian gold plating with semi-matte, copper-gold finish which minimized the traditional problem of flare when filming real gold or other gold substitutes under the studio lights. By 1937 was a leading supplier of costume jewelry to Hollywood film studies and he developed a retail line for sale to the public. He researched and simplified specific historical styles of jewelry that conveyed the appropriate period ambience for movies. Joseff designs were commissioned for such films as A Star Is Born (1936), The Wizard of Oz and Gone With the Wind (both 1939), Casablanca (1942), Singing in the Rain (1952), Breakfast at Tiffany's (1961), Cleopatra (1963) and My Fair Lady (1964). He was killed in a plane crash in 1948. Since 1950 the company has been run by his widow Joan Castle. Pieces are stamped "Joseff" or "Joseff of Hollywood". Some of the pieces made in the late 1930s and 40s have been reissued in recent years. Scarce on the market and very collectible. Priced accordingly.

Judy Lee: Judy Lee is the trademark of the Blanch-Erte Company founded in the late 1950s. Marketed their jewelry at home parties like Sarah Coventry. Ceased business in the 1970s. Average quality. Not too terribly common on the market. Usually marked Judy-Lee (in use since 1958) but also Judy-Lee Jewels.

Juliana: Please see under DeLizza and Elster.

K

Kafin: (pr: KAY fin) New York based company in operation from the 1950s to the 1960s. Produced both rhinestone and metal jewelry of average to above average quality. Marked Kafin of New York or just Kafin in script signature form.

Kalo: Founded by Clara Barck Wells in Park Ridge, Illinois in 1900. Became the Chicago area's most prolific producer of handwrought silver jewelry. Operated in a communal setting true to the Arts and Crafts movement. Clara retired in 1940 and in 1959 gave the shop to four loyal employees who continued business. Ceased operations in 1970. High quality Sterling jewelry sometimes enhanced with semi-precious stones. Very collectible and priced accordingly. Signed KALO.

Karu: Not clear whether the jewelry marked Karu, Karu Fifth Ave and Karu Arke Inc. was manufactured by Kaufman and Ruderman (comedian Andy Kaufman's family) . Jewelry appears to have been manufactured from the 1940s to at least the 1970s. Employs iridescent crystal beads and aurora borealis rhinestones set on goldtone metal. Karu signature first used in 1940, Karu Arke 1950s.

Kerr & Co.: Originally known as Kerr and Thierry. Founded in New Jersey in 1855. Started by making tableware and gold and silver jewelry. Made Art Nouveau jewelry from 1892 to 1900. Hollow-backed jewelry stamped with imitation repousse work. Rare on the market and the prices reflect that. Marked with a fleur-de-lys.

Keyes: Canadian costume jewelry company in business from circa 1940s to circa 1990s. Keyes was a well known Belgian gem designer and jeweller who switched to costume jewelry because he loved the freedom to be more creative with design. Friend and contemporary of Sherman. His company was located in Montreal, Canada. Produced jewelry for M. Boucher. Jewelry is high quality with superior stones. Signed KEYES.

Kirk & Son: Founded by Samuel Kirk in Baltimore, Maryland almost 200 years ago. Its name changed several times from Kirk & Smith to Samuel Kirk, to Samuel Kirk & Son before finally being incorporated as Kirk Stieff Corporation in 1979. Manufacturer of silver jewelry. Still in business.

Korda: Jewelry marked Korda is associated with the 1940 release of the movie "Thief of Baghdad" produced by Alexander Korda. Some of the pieces reflect the fantasy theme of the movie and others may be copies of the ornamental jewelry worn by the cast in the movie. High quality and extremely rare. Pieces are marked Thief of Baghdad. Prices will continue to rise.

Kramer: Kramer Jewelry Creations was founded in New York in 1943 by Louis Kramer and continued production until about 1980. Much of the jewelry produced in the 1940s and 1950s was designed by Louis Kramer himself. The jewelry features high-quality Austrian rhinestones. IN the early 1950s, Kramer produced jewelry for Christian Dior. Marked Kramer or Kramer of New York. Very collectible, especially the more extravagant pieces and parures.

Krementz: Krementz and Co. was first established by a group of investors to produce fine jewelry but they became a leading manufacturer of collar buttons and cuff links. They also produced 10K and 14K gold jewelry set with pearls and precious stones in late Victorian and Art Nouveau styles. As the demand for collar buttons declined by the 1930s, the company expanded into the area of women's jewelry. Still in business today. Traditional and elegant designs using quality material and workmanship. Most pieces are marked Krementz - sometimes in unusual places such as pin stems. Other marks used since 1930 are a set of armor with the word "Heraldic" diagonally inside a shield, Ju-Kay since 1907, Snap-Bar on cufflinks since 1940 and a picture of a snap with bent ends since 1896.

L

Laguna: Laguna is the registered trademark of Royal Craftsmen Inc. founded in New York City in 1944. Manufactured simulated pearl jewelry, beaded jewelry and faceted crystal beads. Average to below average quality. Common on the market.

Lane, Kenneth Jay: Born in Detroit, Michigan in 1930. In the mid 1950s he began working in Vogue's art department. From the late 1950s to the early 1960s he designed shoes for Roger Vivier studio at Dior and then shoes and jewelry for Arnold Scaasi. Founded the KFL company in New York in 1963. Began designing jewelry lines for Avon in the mid 1980s. Began selling his jewelry on QVC on the late 1990s. Jewelry is bright and bold, employing Swarovski crystals, colored stones and faux pearls. Pieces made up until the late 1970s are marked KJL (most collectible). The jewelry line created for Saks Fifth Avenue was signed Kenneth Jay Lane. The jewelry for Laguna, featuring their pearls, was signed Kenneth Lane Laguna. The Avon line was signed KJL for Avon.

Lang Jewelry Company: Established circa 1946 in Providence, Rhode Island. Manufacturer of Sterling Silver jewelry of good quality with floral and figural motifs. Two common marks are LANG and Lang with a Swan (used since 1946).

Lanvin: The House of Lanvin was established in Paris in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin. Oldest of the Paris fashion houses. Creates stylish and elegant jewelry to complement its fashions. Produced a series of carved Op Art plastic pendants on chains which have been highly collectible.

La Pierre: Founded in New York City in 1855. Relocated its factory to Newark in 1893. Produced good quality jewelry - notably bangles, belt buckles and pins - until 1929. Usually Silver, but sometimes with other materials such as celluloid. Rare on the market and priced accordingly.

La Rel: La Rel is the trademark for La Rel Originals founded in New York City circa 1953. Manufactured an assortment of rhinestone jewelry in subdued traditional designs. Average to above average quality. Not very common on the market. Usually marked La Rel or La Rel Originals. Early pieces may also include the words "rhinestone magic".

Ledesma: Enrique Ledesma trained at his father's workshop in Mexico City. Moved to Taxco circa 1940 and worked at Spratling's Las Delicias and later at Los Castillo. Opened his own workshop circa 1950. Masterful craftsmanship in designs inspired by nature. Marked Ledesma with an extended L.

Leru: (pr: LA Roo) In business during 1950s and 1960s. Jewelry usually is in white or pastel colors employing light and pastel color stones on plastic or metal base in floral patterns. Sometimes opaque glass beads. Average to below average quality. Often found in worn condition. Signed Leru.

Liberty: Established in London, 1875, by Arthur L. Liberty. From 1894, designs were commissioned from jewelers such as Archibald Knox, leading figure in the Arts and Crafts movement. Pieces are often made of hammered silver with peacock blue and green enameling and semi-precious stones with a Celtic influence. Gorgeous jewelry which is rare on the market and priced accordingly.

Lisner: (pr: LIZ ner) D. Lisner and Company was founded in New York City in the early 1900s. Competitor of Coro. Manufactured a wide range of jewelry. Designed by Henrich Ganz from circa 1955 to early 1960s. The mark Lisner in block letters first used in 1959. Common on the market and affordably priced. Their higher quality pieces will rise in price.

Lister, Farah: Has been designing jewelry since 1986. Currently based in London after having lived and worked all over the world. Her jewelry is known for its bold scale and color combinations.

Little Nemo Jewelry: Little Nemo jewelry was founded by Benjamin Brier, Charles Brier and Samuel Magid in Providence RI in 1913. Ceased operations in 1978. Signed Nemo inside circle or L/N inside various shapes such as a diamond.

Los Ballesteros: (pr: BUY a steros) Jalil Majul Ballesteros established a workshop in Taxco in 1937. He came from several generations of silversmiths. First began manufacturing silver jewelry in the traditional filigree style of Iguala, but later began making Taxco type silver jewelry. Many pieces are inspired by the pre-Hispanic motifs. Still in business at its workshop on Los Plateros Avenue in Taxco. Broad range of jewelry with some very fine early work.

Los Castillo: (pr: Cass TEE yo) Antonio Castillo de Teran and his brothers trained at Spratling. Set up their own workshop in 1939 producing jewelry primarily designed by Margot van Voorhies Carr (Margot de Taxco), an American visitor Antonio had married. Their jewelry exhibits the finest craftsmanship and beautiful designs. Still in business with Don Antonio's daughter, Emilia, as the major designer. Can be found on the market, very collectible and sought after, and priced accordingly with prices continuing to rise.

 

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