BEHIND THE JEWELS  M-Q



M

Maison Gripoix: (pr: May ZOH Gree PWAH) Founded in Paris circa 1870 as a wholesaler of glass buttons and beads. Still in business. At the turn of the century they began creating copies of flamboyant Art Nouveau pieces worn by actress Sarah Bernhardt. Soon afterward, they began producing pieces for Piguet, a leading couturier. In the mid 1920s, they produced pieces for Chanel. In the 1990s the Histoire de Verre line was introduced which is known for its pate-de-verre work (molded colored glass, sometimes called poured glass). Very collectible and priced accordingly.

Margot: (pr: Mar GO) Margot van Voohries Carr, an American, moved to Mexico in 1937 and married Antonio Castillo. (See Los Castillo) The marriage lasted 10 years. After her divorce, she established her own jewelry business. Margot designed the jewelry and had a workforce to execute her designs. The business was forced into bankruptcy and liquidation in the 1970s. She spent the last years of her life in poverty and died in 1985. Her jewelry is unique in design, many enameled. Signed Margot de Taxco. Can be found on the market. Very collectible and commands high prices.

Maricela: Mexican silver jewelry marked Maricela was manufactured by Isidro Garcia Pina who opened his own workshop in Taxco in 1943. Ceased operations in 1986.

Marino: No definitive information found for location and dates of this company. Above average quality. Most of the pieces emphasize metalwork and have no decorative imitation stones. No all of the jewelry is marked. Firm used a unique earring clip which is stamped with a triangular floral design on both sides and Pat. #1,967,965 (circa 1934).

Marvella: Marvella is the trademark used by the Weinrich Bros. Co. (also H. Weinrich Company, Inc.) which was founded in Philadelphia circa 1911. Marvella Pearls, Inc. was the name adopted circa 1950 and changed to Marvella, Inc. around 1965. The post World War II jewelry consists primarily of simulated pearls and plain and faceted beads jewelry. Employed aurora borealis stones of the highest quality and quality goldtone settings. Purchased by Trifari in 1982. Used many different trademarks, most of which include the company name or Marvell in a longer name such as Marvellesque, Marvellette and Marvellier.

Matl: Matl is the mark used by Matilde Eugenia Poulat (pr: Mah Teel Duh Poo lat) who began making Mexican silver jewelry in the 1930s. She opened a retail shop in Mexico City in 1950. Her jewelry is characterized by stylized floral and figural motifs and religious themes. Often utilized a combination of turquoise, coral and amethyst stones. Matilde died in 1960. Her nephew, Salas, continues to make Matl jewelry in her old designs. Signed Matl or patent 10463. Original Matl pieces command high prices. Salas pieces, which are also very beautiful, command a lower price.

Mazer/Jomaz: (pr: MAY zer and JOE Maz) Founded by Joseph and Lincoln Mazer in New York circa 1927. Later changed name to Joseph J. Mazer and Company (listed under this name in the 1950 "Jewelers' Circular"). High quality jewelry. Early 1950s jewelry was designed by Andre Fleuridas. Adolfo designed some of the 1970s pieces. Ceased operations in the late 1970s. Earlier jewelry marked Mazer Bros. Signed Mazer 1927 to 1970. Signed Jomaz 1950 to 1970. Signed Joseph Mazer 1950- 1970. Very collectible.

McClelland Barclay: McClelland Barclay was born in St. Louis, MO in 1891. Studied art with H.C. Ives, George Bridgman and Thomas Fogarty. He did illustrations for both Cosmopolitan and Good Housekeeping as well as posters for various agencies. He extended his talents to making jewelry. Created beautiful jewelry in sterling silver and other pieces set with rhinestones on gold plated metal. Died in 1943, during World War II, when a landing ship on which he was a passenger was destroyed by an enemy torpedo. His body was never found. Very rare on the market and extremely collectible. Usually marked McClelland Barclay. (Not to be confused with Barclay.)

Melendez, Emma: Emma Melendez opened her workshop in 1953 and employed a number of designers. These designers initials often appear on her jewelry along with the Emma signature. Closed her shop in 1971. High quality and collectible.

Melendez, Miguel: Trained by Antonio Castillo at Spratling's. Left Spratling for Los Castillo. Responsible for the development of enamelwork introduced by Los Castillo which later became the hallmark of Margot's jewelry. Considered among the best Mexican silversmiths, especially in the field of repousse. Never established his own workshop. Pieces are signed in a script M, the end of which encircles the letter. Also marked CM.

Mimi di N: Mimi di Niscemi was born in Palermo, Italy. She studied at the Philadelphia Museum School of Industrial Arts which allowed her to work part-time for a jewelry manufacturer who produced Schiaparelli jewelry. Her skill afforded her the opportunity to work with Dutch silversmith Rudolph Broom at the Wichita Art Association. She won a scholarship to the School of Applied Arts in Paris. In the 1950s she formed a partnership with Arnold Scaasi and produced pieces marked Jewels by Scaasi. In 1959 she joined Robert DeMario but soon moved to the New York bead house Brania where she made jewels marked Brania/Mimi di N. She opened her own jewelry firm in 1960 in New York City. She is still in business. and her pieces are marked Mimi di N.

Ming: Established in Honolulu in the 1940s, Ming's was a retail jewelry store which later added more than a dozen additional stores in Hawaii and on the mainland. They are no longer in business. Their jewelry employed a floral or faunal motif in natural material such as ivory, coral and jade. They also made silver jewelry. Pieces are signed Ming's. Can be found on the market. Collectible and priced accordingly.

Miracle: The brand name Miracle was used on jewelry manufactured in Birmingham by A.Hill & Co. founded in 1946 and later by Butler & Wilson in the 1980s. In silvertone or goldtone, antiqued, with faux stones such as agate and Cairngorn. Most of the Miracle jewelry I have seen has imitated antique Celtic, Irish and Scottish jewelry. Jewelry with the Miracle signature with large M and smaller other letters underlined is from the 1960s to 1980s. The A Miracle Creation hallmark in a small shaped cartouche is probably a 1950s signature.

Mizpah: There is a variety of jewelry dating back at least to the turn of the century which is marked Mizpah. No definitive information about any one company having been responsible for making the bulk of this jewelry. Since the word "Mizpah" evolved to mean farewell or God watch over you, there is speculation that these pieces were farewell gifts made by many different manufacturers and signed "mizpah" for the sentiment.

Monet: (pr: MOE nay) Founded as Monocraft in 1929 by brothers Michael and Jay Chernow in Providence, Rhode Island. Produced gold plated monograms which were set on handbags in the store at the time of purchase. Began manufacturing jewelry under the name of Monet circa 1937. Much of the 1940s jewelry used silver as the base metal. Monet was acquired by General Mills in 1968. In 1977, the company introduced a new line of jewelry named Ciani with a higher price range. The first was purchased by Crystal Brands Jewelry in 1989 and is still in operation. Most of the Monet jewelry found is gold plated metal. All Monet jewelry is marked on the back of the piece and/or on a metal tag attached to the necklace chain. Abundant on the market and priced accordingly.

Murrle Bennet & Co: In business 1884 to 1914. Jewelry was similar to Liberty. Pieces were usually made of silver or low-carat gold and set with green and blue enamelwork, semi-precious stones, mother of pearl or glass. Often designed by Theodor Fahrner. Most pieces signed MB or MB & Co. Those attributed to a specific designer are the most valuable. Rare on the market and priced accordingly.

Mylu: Mylu is the trademark of the Mylu Design Co. which ceased operation circa 1970s. The jewelry is usually in gold plated metal enhanced by rhinestones or enamel work. They manufactured novelty and figural pins including a large amount of Christmas jewelry. Usually marked MYLU on the back of the pieces.

N

Napier: (pr NAY pee ur) Originally founded as Whitney and Rice in Attleboro, Massachusettes as a manufacturer of silver products. Changed hands in 1882 and became Carpenter and Bliss and then E.A. Bliss and Co., Inc. Moved to Meriden, Connecticut in 1890. After WWI the firm began production of jewelry. James Napier became president in 1920 and the company name was again changed - this time to Napier-Bliss Co. In 1922, the name was changed to Napier Company. Still in business today as a major manufacturer of costume jewelry. Their early designs and their Egyptian influenced pieces of the 1920s and 1930s are very collectible as are their chunky gilt metal charm bracelets of the 1950s and 1960s. Used a variety of trademarks all including the name Napier.

Newhouse: Possibly manufactured by the J.L. Newhouse and Son, Inc. during the 1950s and 1960s. Above average quality. Marked Newhouse jewelry is rare on the market.

Nye: Stuart Nye founded the Stuart Nye Silver Shop in 1933 in Asheville, North Carolina. Formed a partnership with Ralph and Annie Morris in 1947 and retired in 1948. Still in business. All work is hand done and hand finished and displays motifs taken from nature such as dogwood flowers, ivy, oak and pine cone. Signed NYE in a three-leaf clover design. Very collectible and priced accordingly.

O

Ora: This is the trademark of the Chicago firm of Agnini and Singer, later the Ralph Singer Company. Founded in 1921 by Oreste Agnini. Manufactured costume jewelry and were a supplier of rhinestone buttons and pins for Eisenberg dresses when Eisenberg was still doing its clothing line. In the early 1950s, Anne Geyer was the principal designer. Most of the Oral jewelry is set with quality rhinestones on gold or rhodium plated metal. Marked Ora. Still in business.

Orb: Founded by Otto R. Bade in the late 1950s in New Hope, Pennsylvania. Otto Bade served as foreman to Rebajes in the 1940s and 1950s. Before Rebajes relocated in Spain, he sold Bade his designs and machinery. Bade manufactured copper jewelry under the name of Orbcraft. Still in business today specializing in the manufacturing of gold and silver rings.

Ornella: The following information is from Ginger Moro, author of "European Designer Jewelry". Ornella jewelry was designed by Maria Vittoria Albani and produced in Milan, Italy. Ornella design is characterized by unusual costume jewelry materials - ceramic, painted wood, shells and Venetian beads. The 1950s were the heyday of their success. Still in business in 1989 - not sure if they are currently still manufacturing jewelry.

Otis: Founded in Providence, Rhode Island circa 1943. Beautifully designed jewelry with superior stones, often in Art Deco style. Usually done with clear rhinestones. Hard to find on the market. Mr. Otis died in 1972. Company ceased operations circa 1970.
 

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